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Changed line 63 from:
If you've got any more questions, come talk to Brett in the residents' office.
to:
If you've got any more questions, come talk to Nick or Merche in the residents' office.
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''COMPRESSION and LIMITING''\\
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'''COMPRESSION and LIMITING'''\\
Changed line 49 from:
''COMPRESSION and LIMITING'''\\
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''COMPRESSION and LIMITING''\\
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''COMPRESSION/LIMITING'''\\
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''COMPRESSION and LIMITING'''\\
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''COMPRESSION/LIMITING'''\\
Audio compression is affecting the dynamic range of the signal and isn't the same thing is data compression for an mp3. Compressors are a great tool, but unfortunately this process in the Zoom is happening after the Analog to Digital converters have already turned your sound waves into zeroz and ones, which doesn't make them very useful in my opinion, and I would rather apply compression in post, where I have more control over the settings. Limiting is just a more extreme form of compression, and can be very useful for not overloading the ADCs if they are put in front of them in the signal path. This is a great feature that is found on the Sound Devices recorder we have as a special check-out from Rob. In general, I don't use the compressor or limiter on the H4n, but you might want to try some of the settings. Just remember not to record to hot, because it won't save you from hitting digital zero.
Changed lines 27-28 from:
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This is an annoying feature to me, but you can't expect all of the features of expensive recorders on a device this cheap. I wish that you could monitor a single input in both ears, but not affect the recording. This feature will actually sum both channels together into a mono mix, which is not what we want. So if you are recording just using one shotgun microphone, it is tempting to use this feature to hear it in both ears, but it is actually mixing low level noise from the second channel preamp into the other channel. I prefer to leave this off and only monitor in one ear. In post production you can then strip out the silent channel. FCPX actually has an import setting to do just this.
Changed lines 35-36 from:
The biggest mistake people make make with digital audio recording is having levels that are too hot and and that hit digital zero. Once you hit digital zero the audio signal will distort and there is no way of ever recovering the information that was lost. You want to make sure that you never come close to the top of the meters. I try to have my levels, averaging between -24 and -12 with no peaks going over -6dB. So before you start recording take a look at your meters on the front panel and adjust your levels by pressing the REC LEVEL buttons up or down on the right side of ZOOM. If you are using two external microphones, you can adjust them individually, by pressing the 1 or 2 input buttons after pressing the REC LEVEL.
to:
The '''biggest''' mistake people make make with digital audio recording is having levels that are too hot and and that hit digital zero. Once you hit digital zero the audio signal will distort and there is no way of ever recovering the information that was lost. You want to make sure that you never come close to the top of the meters. I try to have my levels, averaging between -24 and -12 with no peaks going over -6dB. Make sure to leave some headroom for any unexpected spikes in level. So before you start recording take a look at your meters on the front panel and adjust your levels by pressing the REC LEVEL buttons up or down on the right side of ZOOM. If you are using two external microphones, you can adjust them individually, by pressing the 1 or 2 input buttons after pressing the REC LEVEL. I generally try to be pretty conservative when setting levels. DON'T RECORD TOO HOT!
Changed line 38 from:
Also called auto gain control sounds like a great solution to getting good levels, but don't be fooled. This is great for consumer products and people who aren't thinking about how to get the best sounding audio, but not for us. The recorder will try to automatically turn up and down the volume based on how loud the input is. So when it is quiet it will start to turn up the gain up and as soon as there is a louder sound it will try to turn it down. This often ends up resulting in audio that "pumps" as it is being turned up and down. You should always have this feature turned off and set your levels manually. You can access this through MENU, then select INPUT, then scroll down and select LEVEL AUTO and make sure it is OFF.
to:
Also called auto gain control or ACG on some cameras, this sounds like a great solution to getting good levels, but don't be fooled. This is great for consumer products and people who aren't thinking about how to get the best sounding audio, but not for us. The recorder will try to automatically turn up and down the volume based on how loud the input is. So when it is quiet it will start to turn up the gain up and as soon as there is a louder sound it will try to turn it down. This often ends up resulting in audio that "pumps" as it is being turned up and down. You should always have this feature turned off and set your levels manually. You can access this through MENU, then select INPUT, then scroll down and select LEVEL AUTO and make sure it is OFF.
Changed lines 27-28 from:
With some recording setups like a boom with a lavalier microphone some people prefer to hear them as a mono mix, because the two microphones are not set up as a stereo pair, but rather two discrete mono recordings. You can accomplish this by going to MENU, selecting INPUT and turning on MONO MIX. Each channel will now be equal in each ear. This will only work when using external microphones. I however, always monitor with channel 1 in my left ear and channel 2 in my right ear, to allow me to make critical judgements as to what is happening with each mic, but it can sound strange to some people because it isn't actually stereo. One reason you might want to do this is if you are only recording with one external mic like a shotgun but want to hear it in both ears.
to:
With some recording setups like a boom and a lavalier microphone, some people prefer to hear them as a mono mix, because the two microphones are not set up as a stereo pair, but rather two discrete mono recordings. You can accomplish this by going to MENU, selecting INPUT and turning on MONO MIX. Each channel will now be equal in each ear. This will only work when using external microphones. I however, always monitor with channel 1 in my left ear and channel 2 in my right ear, to allow me to make critical judgements as to what is happening with each mic, but it can sound strange because it isn't actually stereo. One reason you might want to do this is if you are only recording with one external mic like a shotgun but want to hear it in both ears. I don't recommend this because you aren't just monitoring it, but the recorder is actually mixing the
Changed lines 35-36 from:
The biggest mistake people make make with digital audio recording is having levels that are too hot and and that hit digital zero. Once you hit digital zero the audio signal will distort and there is no way of ever recovering the information that was lost. There are post production tools to make it sound better, but we can never get rid of the distortion. You want to make sure that you never come close to the top of the meters. I try to have my levels, averaging between -24 and -12 with no peaks going over -6dB. So before you start recording take a look at your meters on the front panel and adjust your levels by pressing the REC LEVEL buttons up or down on the right side of ZOOM. If you are using two external microphones, you can adjust them individually, by pressing the 1 or 2 input buttons after pressing the REC LEVEL.
to:
The biggest mistake people make make with digital audio recording is having levels that are too hot and and that hit digital zero. Once you hit digital zero the audio signal will distort and there is no way of ever recovering the information that was lost. You want to make sure that you never come close to the top of the meters. I try to have my levels, averaging between -24 and -12 with no peaks going over -6dB. So before you start recording take a look at your meters on the front panel and adjust your levels by pressing the REC LEVEL buttons up or down on the right side of ZOOM. If you are using two external microphones, you can adjust them individually, by pressing the 1 or 2 input buttons after pressing the REC LEVEL.
Changed line 59 from:
If you've got any more questions, come talk to Brett in the residents' office.
to:
If you've got any more questions, come talk to Brett in the residents' office.
Changed lines 18-19 from:
If you are using the onboard microphones, make sure that the mic button on the front panel is selected (indicated by being lit red.) If you want to use an external microphone, like a shotgun mic, you need to switch the input by pressing the 1 or 2 buttons directly below the mic button. The recorder is now looking for input from the bottom of the recorder. You will need an XLR cable to connect the microphone and and condenser microphones, such as shotguns also need power.
to:
If you are using the onboard microphones, make sure that the mic button on the front panel is selected (indicated by being lit red.) If you want to use an external microphone, like a shotgun mic, you need to switch the input by pressing the 1 or 2 buttons directly below the mic button. The recorder is now looking for input from the bottom of the recorder. You will need an XLR cable to connect the microphone and and condenser microphones, such as shotguns also need power. You can also use a 1/4" TRS cable to connect to other professional audio gear.
Changed lines 21-22 from:
Power can be supplied in two different ways to condenser microphones, either by installing a battery in the mic by unscrewing the base and installing a single AA battery or by turning on Phantom Power. Normally indicated as +48V, Phantom Power supplies balanced power through the XLR cable. To turn on Phantom Power on the Zoom recorder, go into the Menu system and select input, and scroll down to PHANTOM and select +48V. The other option, +24V, is used for older microphone, but all of the mics we have will use +48V. Phantom Power will be indicated as being on with a small 48V in the lower bar on the main screen.
to:
Power can be supplied in two different ways to condenser microphones, either by installing a battery in the mic by unscrewing the base and installing a single AA battery or by turning on Phantom Power. Normally indicated as +48V, Phantom Power supplies balanced power through the XLR cable. To turn on Phantom Power on the Zoom recorder, go into the Menu system and select input, and scroll down to PHANTOM and select +48V. The other option, +24V, is used for some older microphones, but all of the mics we have will use +48V. Phantom Power will be indicated as being on with a small 48V in the lower bar on the main screen. When Phantom Power is engaged you will use your batteries up faster, so only have it on if you need it.
Changed lines 24-25 from:
One thing that often gets people with this recorder, is that you won't see the levels moving or hear any input, unless you arm your track for recording by pressing the REC button. It isn't actually recording yet, as indicated by the pause symbol in the upper left portion of the screen, but is ready to record and now you will hear audio through your headphones. This can be confusing and we can change it so that we always hear and see input. To do this, go to the MENU system, and scroll down and select INPUT, and then select MONITOR, and switch it to ON. You will now hear audio and see levels on your meters if you have headphones plugged in.
to:
One thing that often gets people confused with this recorder, is that you won't see the levels moving or hear any input, unless you arm your track for recording by pressing the REC button. It isn't actually recording yet, as indicated by the pause symbol in the upper left portion of the screen, but is ready to record and now you will hear audio through your headphones. This can be confusing and we can change it so that we always hear and see input. To do this, go to the MENU system, and scroll down and select INPUT, and then select MONITOR, and switch it to ON. You will now hear audio and see levels on your meters if you have headphones plugged in. If headphones aren't plugged in you won't see levels unless you press record, but you should always use headphones to listen to what you are recording.
Changed line 59 from:
If you've got any more questions, email Brett: [[mailto:bpm258@nyu.edu |bpm258@nyu.edu]]
to:
If you've got any more questions, come talk to Brett in the residents' office.
Changed lines 41-44 from:
If you are using two external microphones and need the levels to be linked together for various stereo microphone techniques like binaural recording, you can link the levels together by going to MENU, selecting INPUT, and turning on 1/2 LINK.
'''OUTDOORFIELD RECORD'''\\
The onboard microphones as well as microphones like guns are very sensitive to wind. Use a windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone. In a pinch you can use a piece of cloth or a sock, but the foam windscreens are designed to tightly fit the mics and block moving air from hitting the capsules, while allowing sound to be recorded cleanly.
'''OUTDOOR
The
to:
If you are using two external microphones and need the levels to be linked together for various stereo microphone techniques like binaural recording, you can link the levels together by going to MENU, selecting INPUT, and turning on 1/2 LINK. This will match the gain for both channels.
'''OUTDOOR FIELD RECORDING'''\\
The onboard microphones as well as microphones like shotguns are very sensitive to wind. Use a windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone. In a pinch you can use a piece of cloth or a sock, but the foam windscreens are designed to tightly fit the mics and block moving air from hitting the capsules, while allowing sound to be recorded cleanly.
'''OUTDOOR FIELD RECORDING'''\\
The onboard microphones as well as microphones like shotguns are very sensitive to wind. Use a windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone. In a pinch you can use a piece of cloth or a sock, but the foam windscreens are designed to tightly fit the mics and block moving air from hitting the capsules, while allowing sound to be recorded cleanly.
Changed lines 44-46 from:
The onboard microphones as well as microphones like guns are very sensitive to wind. Use a windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone. In a pinch you can use a piece of cloth or a sock, but the foam windscreens are designed to tightly fit the mics and block moving air from hitting the capsules,
to:
The onboard microphones as well as microphones like guns are very sensitive to wind. Use a windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone. In a pinch you can use a piece of cloth or a sock, but the foam windscreens are designed to tightly fit the mics and block moving air from hitting the capsules, while allowing sound to be recorded cleanly.
'''LO CUT'''\\
Another way to get rid of unwanted rumble from wind, subway vibrations, or AC units, is to filter out all of the frequencies that we don't need. You can engage this by going to MENU, selecting INPUT, and then LO CUT. This can be turned on separately for the onboard mics or external mics. You can select the frequency that will begin to rolloff everything below it. I usually select 80hz unless I am recording something that I know I want those lower frequencies.
'''LO CUT'''\\
Another way to get rid of unwanted rumble from wind, subway vibrations, or AC units, is to filter out all of the frequencies that we don't need. You can engage this by going to MENU, selecting INPUT, and then LO CUT. This can be turned on separately for the onboard mics or external mics. You can select the frequency that will begin to rolloff everything below it. I usually select 80hz unless I am recording something that I know I want those lower frequencies.
Changed line 37 from:
'''LEVEL AUTO'''\\
to:
'''LEVEL AUTO''' \\
Changed lines 21-22 from:
Power can be supplied in two different ways to condenser microphones, either by installing a battery in the mic by unscrewing the base and installing a single AA battery or by turning on Phantom Power. Normally indicated as +48V, Phantom Power supplies balanced power through the XLR cable. To turn on Phantom Power on the Zoom recorder, go into the Menu system and select input, and scroll down to PHANTOM and select +48V. The other option, +24V, is used for older microphone, but all of the mics we have will use +48V.
to:
Power can be supplied in two different ways to condenser microphones, either by installing a battery in the mic by unscrewing the base and installing a single AA battery or by turning on Phantom Power. Normally indicated as +48V, Phantom Power supplies balanced power through the XLR cable. To turn on Phantom Power on the Zoom recorder, go into the Menu system and select input, and scroll down to PHANTOM and select +48V. The other option, +24V, is used for older microphone, but all of the mics we have will use +48V. Phantom Power will be indicated as being on with a small 48V in the lower bar on the main screen.
Added lines 26-28:
'''MONO MIX'''\\
With some recording setups like a boom with a lavalier microphone some people prefer to hear them as a mono mix, because the two microphones are not set up as a stereo pair, but rather two discrete mono recordings. You can accomplish this by going to MENU, selecting INPUT and turning on MONO MIX. Each channel will now be equal in each ear. This will only work when using external microphones. I however, always monitor with channel 1 in my left ear and channel 2 in my right ear, to allow me to make critical judgements as to what is happening with each mic, but it can sound strange to some people because it isn't actually stereo. One reason you might want to do this is if you are only recording with one external mic like a shotgun but want to hear it in both ears.
With some recording setups like a boom with a lavalier microphone some people prefer to hear them as a mono mix, because the two microphones are not set up as a stereo pair, but rather two discrete mono recordings. You can accomplish this by going to MENU, selecting INPUT and turning on MONO MIX. Each channel will now be equal in each ear. This will only work when using external microphones. I however, always monitor with channel 1 in my left ear and channel 2 in my right ear, to allow me to make critical judgements as to what is happening with each mic, but it can sound strange to some people because it isn't actually stereo. One reason you might want to do this is if you are only recording with one external mic like a shotgun but want to hear it in both ears.
Changed lines 35-37 from:
The biggest mistake people make make with digital audio recording is having levels that are too hot and and that hit digital zero. Once you hit digital zero the audio signal will distort and there is no way of ever recovering the information that was lost. There are post production tools to make it sound better, but we can never get rid of the distortion. You want to make sure that you never come close to the top of the meters. I try to have my levels, averaging between -24 and -12 with no peaks going over -6dB.
to:
The biggest mistake people make make with digital audio recording is having levels that are too hot and and that hit digital zero. Once you hit digital zero the audio signal will distort and there is no way of ever recovering the information that was lost. There are post production tools to make it sound better, but we can never get rid of the distortion. You want to make sure that you never come close to the top of the meters. I try to have my levels, averaging between -24 and -12 with no peaks going over -6dB. So before you start recording take a look at your meters on the front panel and adjust your levels by pressing the REC LEVEL buttons up or down on the right side of ZOOM. If you are using two external microphones, you can adjust them individually, by pressing the 1 or 2 input buttons after pressing the REC LEVEL.
'''LEVEL AUTO'''\\
Also called auto gain control sounds like a great solution to getting good levels, but don't be fooled. This is great for consumer products and people who aren't thinking about how to get the best sounding audio, but not for us. The recorder will try to automatically turn up and down the volume based on how loud the input is. So when it is quiet it will start to turn up the gain up and as soon as there is a louder sound it will try to turn it down. This often ends up resulting in audio that "pumps" as it is being turned up and down. You should always have this feature turned off and set your levels manually. You can access this through MENU, then select INPUT, then scroll down and select LEVEL AUTO and make sure it is OFF.
'''1/2 LINK'''\\
If you are using two external microphones and need the levels to be linked together for various stereo microphone techniques like binaural recording, you can link the levels together by going to MENU, selecting INPUT, and turning on 1/2 LINK.
'''LEVEL AUTO'''\\
Also called auto gain control sounds like a great solution to getting good levels, but don't be fooled. This is great for consumer products and people who aren't thinking about how to get the best sounding audio, but not for us. The recorder will try to automatically turn up and down the volume based on how loud the input is. So when it is quiet it will start to turn up the gain up and as soon as there is a louder sound it will try to turn it down. This often ends up resulting in audio that "pumps" as it is being turned up and down. You should always have this feature turned off and set your levels manually. You can access this through MENU, then select INPUT, then scroll down and select LEVEL AUTO and make sure it is OFF.
'''1/2 LINK'''\\
If you are using two external microphones and need the levels to be linked together for various stereo microphone techniques like binaural recording, you can link the levels together by going to MENU, selecting INPUT, and turning on 1/2 LINK.
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'''PHANTOM POWER'''\\
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'''PHANTOM POWER'''\\
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GETTING STARTED\\
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'''GETTING STARTED'''\\
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NAVIGATION\\
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'''NAVIGATION'''\\
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SD CARD\\
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'''SD CARD'''\\
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MODE\\
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'''MODE'''\\
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MICROPHONE SELECTION\\
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'''MICROPHONE SELECTION'''\\
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PHANTOM POWER\\
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'''PHANTOM POWER'''\\
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MONITORING\\
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'''MONITORING'''\\
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Suggested Record Settings:
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'''Suggested Record Settings''':
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GETTING STARTED
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GETTING STARTED\\
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to:
NAVIGATION\\
Changed line 11 from:
SD CARD
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SD CARD\\
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to:
MODE\\
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MICROPHONE SELECTION
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MICROPHONE SELECTION\\
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PHANTOM POWER
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PHANTOM POWER\\
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MONITORING\\
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'''LEVELS'''\\
Changed line 36 from:
OUTDOOR FIELD RECORDING
to:
'''OUTDOOR FIELD RECORD'''\\
Changed lines 18-19 from:
If you are using the onboard microphones, make sure that the mic button on the front panel is selected (indicated by being lit red.) If you want to use an external microphone, like a shotgun mic, you need to switch the input by pressing the 1 or 2 buttons directly below the mic button. The recorder is now looking for input from the bottom of the recorder. You will need an XLR cable to connect the microphone and and condenser microphones, such as shotguns also need power. This can be supplied in two different ways. Either by installing a battery in the mic itself by unscrewing the base and installing a single AA battery or by turning on Phantom Power.
to:
If you are using the onboard microphones, make sure that the mic button on the front panel is selected (indicated by being lit red.) If you want to use an external microphone, like a shotgun mic, you need to switch the input by pressing the 1 or 2 buttons directly below the mic button. The recorder is now looking for input from the bottom of the recorder. You will need an XLR cable to connect the microphone and and condenser microphones, such as shotguns also need power.
Changed lines 21-22 from:
to:
Power can be supplied in two different ways to condenser microphones, either by installing a battery in the mic by unscrewing the base and installing a single AA battery or by turning on Phantom Power. Normally indicated as +48V, Phantom Power supplies balanced power through the XLR cable. To turn on Phantom Power on the Zoom recorder, go into the Menu system and select input, and scroll down to PHANTOM and select +48V. The other option, +24V, is used for older microphone, but all of the mics we have will use +48V.
Changed lines 24-28 from:
One thing that often gets people with this recorder, is that you won't see the levels moving or hear any input, unless you arm your track for recording by pressing the REC button. It isn't actually recording yet, as indicated by the pause symbol in the upper left portion of the screen, but is ready to record and now you will hear audio through your headphones. This can be confusing and we can change it so that we always hear and see input. To do this, go to the MENU system, and scroll down and select INPUT
SuggestedSettings:
*48Khz/24bit - Can be found in menu settings under REC or accessed on the front panel by pressing the WAV/MP3 button with a 4 on it.
Suggested
*48Khz/24bit
to:
One thing that often gets people with this recorder, is that you won't see the levels moving or hear any input, unless you arm your track for recording by pressing the REC button. It isn't actually recording yet, as indicated by the pause symbol in the upper left portion of the screen, but is ready to record and now you will hear audio through your headphones. This can be confusing and we can change it so that we always hear and see input. To do this, go to the MENU system, and scroll down and select INPUT, and then select MONITOR, and switch it to ON. You will now hear audio and see levels on your meters if you have headphones plugged in.
Suggested Record Settings:
*48Khz/24bit - Can be found in menu settings under REC or accessed on the front panel by pressing the WAV/MP3 button with a #4 on it.
Suggested Record Settings:
*48Khz/24bit - Can be found in menu settings under REC or accessed on the front panel by pressing the WAV/MP3 button with a #4 on it.
Changed lines 29-33 from:
*Recording in 24bit vs. 16bit allows for greater dynamic range in our recordings.
Usea windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone.
Use
to:
*Recording in 24bit vs. 16bit allows for greater dynamic range in the recordings.
LEVELS
The biggest mistake people make make with digital audio recording is having levels that are too hot and and that hit digital zero. Once you hit digital zero the audio signal will distort and there is no way of ever recovering the information that was lost. There are post production tools to make it sound better, but we can never get rid of the distortion. You want to make sure that you never come close to the top of the meters. I try to have my levels, averaging between -24 and -12 with no peaks going over -6dB.
OUTDOOR FIELD RECORDING
The onboard microphones as well as microphones like guns are very sensitive to wind. Use a windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone. In a pinch you can use a piece of cloth or a sock, but the foam windscreens are designed to tightly fit the mics and block moving air from hitting the capsules,
LEVELS
The biggest mistake people make make with digital audio recording is having levels that are too hot and and that hit digital zero. Once you hit digital zero the audio signal will distort and there is no way of ever recovering the information that was lost. There are post production tools to make it sound better, but we can never get rid of the distortion. You want to make sure that you never come close to the top of the meters. I try to have my levels, averaging between -24 and -12 with no peaks going over -6dB.
OUTDOOR FIELD RECORDING
The onboard microphones as well as microphones like guns are very sensitive to wind. Use a windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone. In a pinch you can use a piece of cloth or a sock, but the foam windscreens are designed to tightly fit the mics and block moving air from hitting the capsules,
Added lines 5-13:
GETTING STARTED
First to turn on the ZOOM, slide the power button down and hold it for a couple of seconds. Let the slider return to the middle position, because if you slide it all the way up it will be LOCKED and none of the buttons will work. Only lock it if have everything set the way you need it and have begun recording, but don't want any buttons accidentally hit by anyone. On the back in the battery compartment, there is a switch labeled STAMINA. Make sure this is turned off as it makes the recorder have limited functionality for very long recordings, like meetings or court proceedings.
NAVIGATION
To access the Menu Settings, press the MENU button on the right side. Use the scroll wheel to move the selection and then press down on the scroll wheel to make a selection. Press the MENU button to go back up a level or return to the main screen.
SD CARD
You should all have your own SD card, that you can put into the ZOOM on the right of the recorder. Don't forget to take it out when you return the recorder. If you would like to format your card and start with a totally clean card, you can go into the Menu, select SD CARD and then select FORMAT. Do not do this if you have anything important on the card, as it will erase everything. You do not need to do this, only if you need to wipe the card for space.
First to turn on the ZOOM, slide the power button down and hold it for a couple of seconds. Let the slider return to the middle position, because if you slide it all the way up it will be LOCKED and none of the buttons will work. Only lock it if have everything set the way you need it and have begun recording, but don't want any buttons accidentally hit by anyone. On the back in the battery compartment, there is a switch labeled STAMINA. Make sure this is turned off as it makes the recorder have limited functionality for very long recordings, like meetings or court proceedings.
NAVIGATION
To access the Menu Settings, press the MENU button on the right side. Use the scroll wheel to move the selection and then press down on the scroll wheel to make a selection. Press the MENU button to go back up a level or return to the main screen.
SD CARD
You should all have your own SD card, that you can put into the ZOOM on the right of the recorder. Don't forget to take it out when you return the recorder. If you would like to format your card and start with a totally clean card, you can go into the Menu, select SD CARD and then select FORMAT. Do not do this if you have anything important on the card, as it will erase everything. You do not need to do this, only if you need to wipe the card for space.
Changed line 24 from:
One thing that often gets people with this recorder, is that you won't see the levels moving or hear any input, unless you arm your track for recording by pressing the REC button. It isn't actually recording yet, as indicated by the pause symbol in the upper left portion of the screen, but is ready to record and now you will hear audio through your headphones. This can be confusing and we can change it so that we always hear
to:
One thing that often gets people with this recorder, is that you won't see the levels moving or hear any input, unless you arm your track for recording by pressing the REC button. It isn't actually recording yet, as indicated by the pause symbol in the upper left portion of the screen, but is ready to record and now you will hear audio through your headphones. This can be confusing and we can change it so that we always hear and see input. To do this, go to the MENU system, and scroll down and select INPUT
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At the top of the recorder, under the Zoom logo, are 3 indicator lights showing which mode of recording is set up: Stereo, 4CH, and MTR. MTR is for multitrack recording so that a singer/songwriter can overdub vocals on a song. We won't be using this mode. You are able to record all 4 inputs, the two microphones on the top of the recorder and the two external inputs on the bottom of the recorder, labeled 1 and 2. These can accept both XLR microphone inputs as well as 1/4" TRS cables from a musical instrument. 4CH will record all four of these channels, however, for most situations you will only need to record either the onboard mics or external mics. For this reason, I suggest using the STEREO mode, and selecting which input you would like to record.
to:
MODE
At the top of the recorder, under the Zoom logo, are 3 indicator lights showing which mode of recording is set up: Stereo, 4CH, and MTR. MTR is for multitrack recording so that a singer/songwriter can overdub vocals on a song. We won't be using this mode. 4CH will allow you to record all 4 inputs, the two microphones on the top of the recorder and the two external inputs on the bottom of the recorder, labeled 1 and 2. These can accept both XLR microphone inputs as well as 1/4" TRS cables from a musical instrument. However, for most situations you will only need to record either the onboard mics or external mics. For this reason, I suggest using the STEREO mode, and selecting which input you would like to record. To change modes go into the menu system and scroll all the way to the bottom of the list and select MODE and then select STEREO to only record 2 channels of audio.
MICROPHONE SELECTION
If you are using the onboard microphones, make sure that the mic button on the front panel is selected (indicated by being lit red.) If you want to use an external microphone, like a shotgun mic, you need to switch the input by pressing the 1 or 2 buttons directly below the mic button. The recorder is now looking for input from the bottom of the recorder. You will need an XLR cable to connect the microphone and and condenser microphones, such as shotguns also need power. This can be supplied in two different ways. Either by installing a battery in the mic itself by unscrewing the base and installing a single AA battery or by turning on Phantom Power.
PHANTOM POWER
Normally indicated as +48V, supplies balanced power through the XLR cable. To turn on Phantom Power on the Zoom recorder, go into the Menu system and select input, and scroll down to PHANTOM and select +48V.
MONITORING
One thing that often gets people with this recorder, is that you won't see the levels moving or hear any input, unless you arm your track for recording by pressing the REC button. It isn't actually recording yet, as indicated by the pause symbol in the upper left portion of the screen, but is ready to record and now you will hear audio through your headphones. This can be confusing and we can change it so that we always hear
At the top of the recorder, under the Zoom logo, are 3 indicator lights showing which mode of recording is set up: Stereo, 4CH, and MTR. MTR is for multitrack recording so that a singer/songwriter can overdub vocals on a song. We won't be using this mode. 4CH will allow you to record all 4 inputs, the two microphones on the top of the recorder and the two external inputs on the bottom of the recorder, labeled 1 and 2. These can accept both XLR microphone inputs as well as 1/4" TRS cables from a musical instrument. However, for most situations you will only need to record either the onboard mics or external mics. For this reason, I suggest using the STEREO mode, and selecting which input you would like to record. To change modes go into the menu system and scroll all the way to the bottom of the list and select MODE and then select STEREO to only record 2 channels of audio.
MICROPHONE SELECTION
If you are using the onboard microphones, make sure that the mic button on the front panel is selected (indicated by being lit red.) If you want to use an external microphone, like a shotgun mic, you need to switch the input by pressing the 1 or 2 buttons directly below the mic button. The recorder is now looking for input from the bottom of the recorder. You will need an XLR cable to connect the microphone and and condenser microphones, such as shotguns also need power. This can be supplied in two different ways. Either by installing a battery in the mic itself by unscrewing the base and installing a single AA battery or by turning on Phantom Power.
PHANTOM POWER
Normally indicated as +48V, supplies balanced power through the XLR cable. To turn on Phantom Power on the Zoom recorder, go into the Menu system and select input, and scroll down to PHANTOM and select +48V.
MONITORING
One thing that often gets people with this recorder, is that you won't see the levels moving or hear any input, unless you arm your track for recording by pressing the REC button. It isn't actually recording yet, as indicated by the pause symbol in the upper left portion of the screen, but is ready to record and now you will hear audio through your headphones. This can be confusing and we can change it so that we always hear
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*Recording in 24bit vs. 16bit allows for greater dynamic range in our recordings.
Use a windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone.
Use a windscreen if you are recording outside. These can be checked out with the recorder and fit over the microphones on top or the over the shotgun microphone.
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At the top of the recorder, under the Zoom logo, are 3 indicator lights showing which mode of recording is set up: Stereo, 4CH, and MTR. MTR is for multitrack recording so that a singer/songwriter can overdub vocals on a song. We won't be using this mode. You are able to record all 4 inputs, the two microphones on the top of the recorder and the two external inputs on the bottom of the recorder, labeled 1 and 2. These can accept both XLR microphone inputs as well as 1/4" TRS cables from a musical instrument. 4CH will record all four of these channels, however, for most situations you will only need to record either the onboard mics or external mics. For this reason, I suggest using the STEREO mode, and selecting which input you would like to record.
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*
*
* When connected to your computer over USB, the H4n becomes an audio interface, allowing you to record directly to any DAW on your machine.
The Microtrack incorporates line-level, instrument and microphone inputs, via combo (XLR/TRS) jacks and a 1/8" stereo mic input. Basically, you can record with any kind of microphone, from a mixer, up to 4-tracks at a time, mix and edit tracks within the device. Some other amazing features included playback at 50-150% speed without changing pitch, and a pre-record mode that begins recording 2-seconds before you hit the record button.
to:
Suggested Settings:
*48Khz/24bit - Can be found in menu settings under REC or accessed on the front panel by pressing the WAV/MP3 button with a 4 on it.
*You should always record uncompressed WAV files and never record as an mp3.
*48Khz/24bit - Can be found in menu settings under REC or accessed on the front panel by pressing the WAV/MP3 button with a 4 on it.
*You should always record uncompressed WAV files and never record as an mp3.
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[[http://www.samsontech.com/site_media/legacy_docs/H4n-manual.pdf | Download]]
to:
[[http://www.samsontech.com/site_media/legacy_docs/H4n-manual.pdf | H4n User Manual]]
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Download the User Manual:\\
[[http://www.samsontech.com/site_media/legacy_docs/H4n-manual.pdf | Download]]
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If you've got any more questions, email Ariel: [[mailto:an31@nyu.edu |an31@nyu.edu]]
to:
If you've got any more questions, email Brett: [[mailto:bpm258@nyu.edu |bpm258@nyu.edu]]
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The Microtrack incorporates line-level, instrument and microphone inputs, via combo (XLR/TRS) jacks and a 1/8" stereo mic input. Basically, you can record with any kind of microphone, from a mixer, up to 4-tracks at a time, mix and edit tracks within the device. Some other amazing features included playback at 50-150% speed without changing pitch,
to:
The Microtrack incorporates line-level, instrument and microphone inputs, via combo (XLR/TRS) jacks and a 1/8" stereo mic input. Basically, you can record with any kind of microphone, from a mixer, up to 4-tracks at a time, mix and edit tracks within the device. Some other amazing features included playback at 50-150% speed without changing pitch, and a pre-record mode that begins recording 2-seconds before you hit the record button.
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to:
If you've got any more questions, email Ariel: [[mailto:an31@nyu.edu |an31@nyu.edu]]
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The Microtrack incorporates line-level, instrument and microphone inputs, via combo (XLR/TRS) jacks and a 1/8" stereo mic input. Basically, you can record with any kind of microphone, from a mixer, up to 4-tracks at a time, mix and edit tracks within the device.
to:
The Microtrack incorporates line-level, instrument and microphone inputs, via combo (XLR/TRS) jacks and a 1/8" stereo mic input. Basically, you can record with any kind of microphone, from a mixer, up to 4-tracks at a time, mix and edit tracks within the device. Some other amazing features included playback at 50-150% speed without changing pitch,
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The Microtrack accepts a variety of input sources, including line-level, instrument and microphone inputs, via combo (XLR/TRS) jacks and a 1/8" stereo mic jack. If you have a specific application in mind, like needing a specific mic or recording direct off a soundboard, it can certainly handle that, but for most applications the included stereo mini-mic sounds surprisingly good and works quite well for most situations.
to:
The Microtrack incorporates line-level, instrument and microphone inputs, via combo (XLR/TRS) jacks and a 1/8" stereo mic input. Basically, you can record with any kind of microphone, from a mixer, up to 4-tracks at a time, mix and edit tracks within the device.
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!! Using the Samson Zoon H4n Digital Audio Recorder:
to:
!! Using the Samson Zoom H4n Digital Audio Recorder:
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The Microtrack accepts a variety of input sources, including straight-line ins, microphone inputs, and a 1/8" stereo mic jack. If you have a specific application in mind, like needing a specific mic or recording direct off a soundboard, it can certainly handle that, but for most applications the included stereo mini-mic sounds surprisingly good and works quite well for most situations.
to:
The Microtrack accepts a variety of input sources, including line-level, instrument and microphone inputs, via combo (XLR/TRS) jacks and a 1/8" stereo mic jack. If you have a specific application in mind, like needing a specific mic or recording direct off a soundboard, it can certainly handle that, but for most applications the included stereo mini-mic sounds surprisingly good and works quite well for most situations.
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Great things to know about the H4n
remain useful as your recording needs grow.
* It is powered by 2 AA batteries (not included), orover USB.
*Make sure the card is empty and/or has room on it — these accept CompactFlash cards, and most in the ER have 2GB cards in them.
* It is powered by 2 AA batteries (not included), or
*
to:
Great things to know about the H4n:
* It's simple enough to use without much experience, and robust enough to grow with your field recording needs.
* It is powered by 2 AA batteries (not included), or through USB.
* It records to SD cards.
* When connected to your computer over USB, the H4n becomes an audio interface, allowing you to record directly to any DAW on your machine.
* It's simple enough to use without much experience, and robust enough to grow with your field recording needs.
* It is powered by 2 AA batteries (not included), or through USB.
* It records to SD cards.
* When connected to your computer over USB, the H4n becomes an audio interface, allowing you to record directly to any DAW on your machine.
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[[http://www.
to:
Here is a decent video introduction on Youtube:\\
[[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXQDsptXHr0 | H4n studio in the palm of your hand]]
[[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXQDsptXHr0 | H4n studio in the palm of your hand]]
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!! Using the M-Audio Microtrack 24/96 Digital Audio Recorder:
to:
!! Using the Samson Zoon H4n Digital Audio Recorder:
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*
* Make sure you have all the cables (and mics) you need
to:
Great things to know about the H4n
* It's simple enough to use without much experience, and robust enough to remain useful as your recording needs grow.
* It is powered by 2 AA batteries (not included), or over USB.
* It's simple enough to use without much experience, and robust enough to remain useful as your recording needs grow.
* It is powered by 2 AA batteries (not included), or over USB.
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http://www.zoom.co.jp/english/products/h4n/h4n_27.jpg
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%rfloat width=250px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
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%rfloat width=250px% http://www.zoom.co.jp/english/products/h4n/h4n_27.jpg
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[[http://www.
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Samson's very own H4n page:\\
[[http://www.samsontech.com/products/productpage.cfm?prodID=1994 | H4n support documents]]
[[http://www.samsontech.com/products/productpage.cfm?prodID=1994 | H4n support documents]]
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How Audio has a great tutorial up as well:\\
to:
How Audio has a great tutorial up as well:\\
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%rfloat width=200px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
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%rfloat width=250px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
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%rfloat width=200px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | '''M-Audio Microtrack'''
to:
%rfloat width=200px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
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%width=200px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | '''M-Audio Microtrack'''
to:
%rfloat width=200px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | '''M-Audio Microtrack'''
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ITP has a pile of these recorders, and they're wonderfully simple to work with.
Theyaccept both
They
to:
ITP has a pile of these recorders, and they're wonderfully simple to work with. Of course, the usual rules apply when checking one out:
* Make sure you check the battery life — these recorders have an internal battery that can be charged over USB, but make sure it's full.
* Make sure you have all the cables (and mics) you need.
* Make sure the card is empty and/or has room on it — these accept CompactFlash cards, and most in the ER have 2GB cards in them.
The Microtrack accepts a variety of input sources, including straight-line ins, microphone inputs, and a 1/8" stereo mic jack. If you have a specific application in mind, like needing a specific mic or recording direct off a soundboard, it can certainly handle that, but for most applications the included stereo mini-mic sounds surprisingly good and works quite well for most situations.
* Make sure you check the battery life — these recorders have an internal battery that can be charged over USB, but make sure it's full.
* Make sure you have all the cables (and mics) you need.
* Make sure the card is empty and/or has room on it — these accept CompactFlash cards, and most in the ER have 2GB cards in them.
The Microtrack accepts a variety of input sources, including straight-line ins, microphone inputs, and a 1/8" stereo mic jack. If you have a specific application in mind, like needing a specific mic or recording direct off a soundboard, it can certainly handle that, but for most applications the included stereo mini-mic sounds surprisingly good and works quite well for most situations.
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to:
%width=200px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | '''M-Audio Microtrack'''
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%lfloat width=100px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | '''M-Audio Microtrack'''
to:
//%lfloat width=100px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | '''M-Audio Microtrack'''
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http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | "M-Audio Microtrack"
to:
%lfloat width=100px% http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | '''M-Audio Microtrack'''
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http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | M-Audio Microtrack
to:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | "M-Audio Microtrack"
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http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
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http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg | M-Audio Microtrack
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They accept both
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!! Using the M-Audio Microtrack 24/96 Digital Audio Recorder:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
ITP has a pile of these recorders, and they're wonderfully simple to work with.
For more, there are some amazing tutorials on Transom.org:\\
[[http://www.transom.org/tools/recording_interviewing/200512.maudio_microtrack.html | The M-Audio Microtrack 24/96]]
How Audio has a great tutorial up as well:\\
[[http://www.howaudio.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=217&Itemid=251 | How Audio]]
Give those read, and if you've got any questions, give Mike a shout: [[mailto:michael.dory@nyu.edu | michael.dory@nyu.edu]]
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RZFGWA9JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
ITP has a pile of these recorders, and they're wonderfully simple to work with.
For more, there are some amazing tutorials on Transom.org:\\
[[http://www.transom.org/tools/recording_interviewing/200512.maudio_microtrack.html | The M-Audio Microtrack 24/96]]
How Audio has a great tutorial up as well:\\
[[http://www.howaudio.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=217&Itemid=251 | How Audio]]
Give those read, and if you've got any questions, give Mike a shout: [[mailto:michael.dory@nyu.edu | michael.dory@nyu.edu]]