Setting up an Arduino on a breadboard

NOTE: On occasion, the process of bootloading an Atmega chip with the AVR ISP mkII will take an extraordinarily long period of time. Usually it should only take a couple minutes and in fact, the AVRtinyISP finishes much quicker. However, there are times where after 5-10 minutes it still appears to be bootloading. I found this to be an odd hiccup (perhaps it is triple checking the data flow) and after giving it ample time, 10 minutes or so, I usually unplug the programmer only to find the burning process to be a success and has ended long ago. I by no means endorse this method and you take all responsibility in whatever may happen to your chip, but in my experience it has been fairly harmless though you should proceed with caution. It is very possible that you may damage your chip in the process.

Let's begin!

Using an Arduino board

Using your breadboard

Let's begin!

Time to burn!

Bootloading Options

Bootloading your chips OPTIONAL

Adding circuitry for a power supply

ATMEGA8/168 Basics

Arduino-Ready

Other Breadboard Options

Parts

(:title Setting up an Arduino on a breadboard:)

(:toc Table of Contents:)

Parts

To do this, you'll need:

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_05_supply.jpg | Power Supply Input The red and black wires to the left of the voltage regulator is where your power supply will be plugged in. The red wire is for the POWER and the black wire is for the GROUND. Be sure to only attach a power supply that is between 7-16V. Any lower and you won't get 5V out of your regulator. Any higher and your regulator may get too hot. A 9V battery, 9V DC power supply, or 12V DC power supply is suitable.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_06.jpg | Blank Canvas

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_06.jpg | Blank Canvas Now that the power-basics are done we are ready to load on the chip!

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_03.jpg | Bottom Power lines Add power and ground wires at the bottom of your board connecting each rail.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_04.jpg | Add the 7805 and decoupling capacitors

Start by adding a 10k ohm resistor "up" (to power) on the RESET pin in order to prevent the chip from resetting itself during normal operation. The RESET pin reboots the chip when pulled down to ground. In later steps we will show you how to add a reset switch that takes advantage of this.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_03.jpg | [-Connect the sensors] 6 Push buttons

Start by adding a 10k ohm pull-up resistor to power on the RESET pin in order to prevent the chip from resetting itself during normal operation. The RESET pin reboots the chip when pulled down to ground. In later steps we will show you how to add a reset switch that takes advantage of this.

When done bootloading, the status bar will be updated with the message "Done burning bootloader." Your chip is now ready to be programmer using the Arduino software! Congrats! Power cycle your Arduino and your new Atmega chip will be running a simple LED blink program with pin 13 (if this is not the case, try programming it with one). If this is working, it was most definitely a success.

NOTE: On occasion, the process of bootloading an Atmega chip with the AVR ISP mkII will take an extraordinarily long period of time. Usually it should only take a couple minutes and in fact, the AVRtinyISP finishes much quicker. However, there are times where after 5-10 minutes it still appears to be bootloading. I found this to be an odd hiccup (perhaps it is triple checking the data flow) and after giving it ample time, 10 minutes or so, I usually unplug the programmer only to find the burning process to be a success and has ended long ago. I by no means endorse this method and you take all responsibility in whatever may happen to your chip, but in my experience it has been fairly harmless though you should process with caution. It is very possible that you may damage your chip in the process.

Place your Atmega chip into the Arduino board with the divot of the chip facing outward. Set the jumper to an external power supply and connect a 12V power brick (your board needs to be externally powered when using the AVR ISP mkII but is not needed with the AVRtinyISP) . Then, attach the 6-pin female plug of your AVR programmer to the 6 male header ICSP pins with the plastic nub of the ribbon cable head facing inward.

NOTE: The AVR ISP mkII turns its LED green when they've been hooked up correctly and are ready for programming. The LED turns red if it is hooked up wrong.

Place your Atmega chip into the Arduino board with the divot of the chip facing outward. Set the jumper to an external power supply and connect a 12V power brick (this is very important. the board must be externally powered). Then, attach the 6-pin female plug of your AVR programmer to the 6 male header ICSP pins with the plastic nub of the ribbon cable head facing inward.

This configuration is similar to the one above but the trick is that the Atmega chip is bootloaded with the Arduino Lilypad bootloader. The Lilypad runs using the internal clock instead of an external clock and so removes the need for much of the supporting circuitry.

The Boarduino is a kit you purchase and assemble to create a nice, small breadboard compatible Arduino set up. All the common components are included on a small PCB so that the Boarduino can easily be added to a breadboard and even removed, in a snap.

Boarduino by Ladyada

Other Breadboard Options

The uDuino Setup by Tymn Twillman
This configuration is similar to the one above but the trick is that the Atmega chip is bootloaded with the Arduino Lilypad bootloader and so many of the supporting components are not needed. Very minimal and barebones, but also cheap.

Once you chose your programmer, the AVR programmer will begin bootloading your Atmega chip and a message will appear in the status bar which reads "Burning bootloader to I/O Board (this may take a minute)..." Lights will flicker on your programmer.

Fire up Arduino and then go to 'Tools' and 'Board'. Choosing the type of board you'd like to use will effect which bootloader you will be put on your chip. Most commonly you will be using the Diecimilia or the most recent version of Arduino for an Atmega PDIP, however if you'd like to bootload an Arduino Lilypad, Arduino Mini, Arduino Nano, or any of the older Arduino versions, choose the appropriate board.

Step 4: Bootloading your chips OPTIONAL

Add the 7805 power regulator and the lines to power the board. The regulator is a TO-220 package where the IN-line from the external power supply goes IN on the left, ground is in the middle and the 5V OUT is on the right (when facing the front of the regulator). We're also adding power OUT and ground wires that connect to the right rail and power IN and ground wires off to the left where our power supply may go.

Also, add a 10uF capacitor between the IN of the regulator and the ground as well as a 10uF capacitor on the right rail between power and ground. The silver strip on the capacitor signifies the ground leg.

There are several options for bootloading your Atmega chips, a few of which are covered in this tutorial. If you wish to bootload your Atmega chips using your breadboard, an additional part will make your life much easier but is not necessary.

Let's begin!
With the breadboard you prepared above, add two wires for power and ground for your AVR programmer.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/6pinAVRprogcable.jpg | 6-pin AVR Programmer Cable

Don't worry, if you don't have an AVR programming adapter you can still bootload without it. It will however be more of a headache to set up. The two images to the left are great references when hooking up a programmer to an Atmega chip without an adapter board. The images will tell you what all the holes in the 6-pin AVR plug are and you will simply need to stick wires in the end and run them to your Atmega chip.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/6pinAVRproghead.jpg | 6-pin AVR Programmer Cable Head

This image is a view from the bottom and labels each of the holes. Take note of the square as to what orientation your cable is in.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_pwrgnd.jpg | Add power and ground

Let's begin! With the breadboard you prepared above, add two wires for power and ground for your AVR programmer.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_plugadapter.jpg | Plug in the AVR adapter

Now plug the AVR programming adapter into the breadboard with the GND pin matching up with the ground wire you just ran and the 5V pin matching up with the power wire you just ran.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_plugin.jpg | Plug in the USB cable and AVR programming cable

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_wires.jpg | Add the MISO, SCK, RESET, and MOSI wires

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_wires.jpg | Add the MISO, SCK, RESET, and MOSI wires

Almost there! Just plug in a USB cable to your USB breakout board and plug the 6-pin plug of your AVR programmer to your AVR programming adapter. The black nub of the 6-pin head must be facing upwards towards the Atmega chip.

In the next step, we'll show you have to use the Arduino software to burn your bootloader!

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_wires.jpg | Add the MISO, SCK, RESET, and MOSI wires

In this step you will need to add the last four wires needed by the AVR programmer for proper bootloading.

Be sure to refer to the Arduino pin mapping for help wiring this up.

• The MISO pin of your adapter will go to pin 18 or Arduino digital pin 12 of your Atmega chip.
• The SCK pin of your adapter will go to pin 19 or Arduino digital pin 13 of your Atmega chip.
• The RESET pin of your adapter will go to pin 1 of your Atmega chip.
• The MOSI pin of your adapter will go to pin 17 or Arduino digital pin 11 of your Atmega chip.

Now plug the AVR programming adapter into the breadboard with the GND pin matching up with the ground wire you just ran and the 5V pin matching up with the power wire you just ran.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_plugadapter.jpg | Plug in the AVR adapter

Now plug the AVR programming adapter into the breadboard with the ground pin matching up with the ground wire you just ran and the 5V pin matching up with the power wire you just ran.

Place your Atmega chip into the Arduino board with the missing nub facing outward. Set the jumper to an external power supply and connect a 12V power brick (this is very important. the board must be externally powered). Then, attach the 6-pin female plug of your AVR programmer to the 6 male header ICSP pins with the plastic nub of the ribbon cable head facing inward.

NOTE: The AVR ISP mkII and probably other programmers turn their LED green when they've been hooked up correctly and are ready for programming. The LED turns red if it is hooked up wrong.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_avradapter.jpg | AVR Programming Adapter

When bootloading an Atmega chip on a breadboard, I found the AVR programming adapter (SKU BOB-08508) from Sparkfun to be incredibly handy. This adapter breaks out the 6 pins from the programmer to 6 inline pins for easy attachment to the breadboard. All the pins are also labeled making it very easy to connect it up to your chip.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_pwrgnd.jpg | Add power and ground

With the breadboard you prepared above, add two wires for power and ground for your AVR programmer.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_burn.png | Choose your programmer. Burn!

Then, go to 'Tools' and 'Burn Bootloader' and choose the programmer you will be using.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_burn.png | Choose your programmer. Burn!

Then, go to 'Tools' and 'Burn Bootloader' and choose the programmer you will be using.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_burning.png | Burning

Once you chose your programmer, the AVR programmer will begin bootloading your Atmega chip and a message will appear in the status bar which reads "Burning bootloader to I/O Board (this may take a minute)..." Lights will flicker your programmer.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_burndone.png | Burn Complete!

When done bootloading, the status bar will be updated with the message "Done burning bootloader." Your chip is now ready to be programmer using the Arduino software! Congrats! Power cycle your Arduino and your new Atmega chip will be running a simple LED blink program with pin 13. If this is working, it was most definitely a success.

NOTE: On occasion, the process of bootloading an Atmega chip will take an extraordinary long period of time. Usually it should only take a couple minutes. However, there are times where after 5-10 minutes it still appears to be bootloading. I found this to be an odd hiccup and after giving it ample time, 10 minutes or so, I usually unplug the programmer only to find the burning process to be a success and has ended long ago. I found this remedy to be fairly safe but definitely proceed with caution. It is possible that you may damage your chip in the process.

Fire up Arduino and then go to 'Tools' and 'Board'. Choosing the type of board you'd like to use will effect which bootloader you will be put on your chip. Most commonly you will be using the Diecimilia or the most recent version of Arduino for an Atmega PDIP, however if you'd like to bootload an Arduino Mini, Arduino Nano, or any of the older Arduino versions, choose the appropriate board.

Time to burn!

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_pickboard.png | Pick your board type

Fire up Arduino and then go to 'Tools' and 'Board'. Choosing the type of board you'd like to use will effect which bootloader you will be put on your chip. Most commonly you will be using the Diecimilia or the most recent version of Arduino for an Atmega PDIP, however

But wait, there's another step right? If you pulled your Atmega chip out of your Arduino, it has most likely been programed several times by yourself and so it definitely has been bootloaded, so you won't need to move any further in this tutorial.

However, if you purchased some extra Atmega8 or Atmega168 chips from an online store they will have NOT been bootloaded with the Arduino bootloader (with the exception of Adafruit Industries). What does this mean? You won't be able to program your chips using the USB to serial breakout board and the Arduino software. So, in order to make your new chips useful for Arduino you MUST bootload them and MUST check out step 4.

Step 5: Bootloading your chips OPTIONAL

Bootloading Options

Using your breadboard

But wait, there's another step right? If you pulled your Atmega chip out of your Arduino, it is most likely bootloaded at the factory and you won't need to move any further in this tutorial. However, if you purchased some Atmega8 or Atmega168 chips from a store they will NOT be bootloaded with the Arduino bootloader (with the exception of Adafruit Industries). What does this mean? You won't be able to program your chips using the USB to serial breakout board and the Arduino software. So, in order to make your new chips useful for Arduino you MUST bootload them and MUST check out step 4.

Bootloading Options

There are also many different kinds of AVR programmers but two are most commonly used here at ITP:

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_mk2.jpg | AVRISP mkII

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_tiny.jpg | USBtinyISP

The AVRISP mkII can be found in the ER or can be purchased from Digikey (Part # ATAVRISP2-ND) while the USBtinyISP must be assembled and can be found at Adafruit Industries.

Step 5: Bootloading your chips OPTIONAL

Using an Arduino board

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_bootload1.jpg | Bootloading on an Arduino board

But wait, there's another step right? If you pulled your Atmega chip out of your Arduino, it is most likely bootloaded at the factory and you won't need to move any further in this tutorial. However, if you purchased some Atmega8 or Atmega168 chips from a store they will NOT be bootloaded with the Arduino bootloader (with the exception of Adafruit Industries). What does this mean? You won't be able to program your chips using the USB to serial breakout board and the Arduino software. So, in order to make your new chips useful for Arduino you MUST bootload them and MUST check out step 4 and step 5.

Step 4: Bootloading Options OPTIONAL

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_bootload1.jpg | Bootloading on an Arduino board

Place your Atmega chip into the Arduino board with the missing nub facing outward. Set the jumper to an external power supply and connect a 12V power brick. Then, attach the 6-pin female plug of your AVR programmer to the 6 male header ICSP pins with the plastic nub of the ribbon cable head facing inward.

Step 5: Bootloading your chips OPTIONAL

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_13.jpg | Add FT232 USB to Serial Board

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_usbback.jpg | The pinouts of the Sparkfun FT232 breakout

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_14.jpg | Connecting the TX and RX

Step 4: Bootloading your chips OPTIONAL

There are two options for bootloading your chips. The first being quite easy and the other being a little more tricky. We will cover both.

• Bootloading your Atmega chip in your newly prepared breadboard with an AVR programmer

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_bootload1.jpg | Bootloading on an Arduino board

But wait, there's another step right? If you pulled your Atmega chip out of your Arduino, it is most likely bootloaded at the factory and you won't need to move any further in this tutorial. However, if you purchased some Atmega8 or Atmega168 chips from a store they will NOT be bootloaded with the Arduino bootloader (with the exception of Adafruit Industries). What does this mean? You won't be able to program your chips using the USB to serial breakout board and the Arduino software. So, in order to make your new chips useful for Arduino you MUST bootload them and MUST check out step 4.

Step 4: Bootloading your chips

There are two options for bootloading your chips. One being quite easy and the other being a little more tricky.

• Bootloading your Atmega chip using a Arduino board and an AVR programmer
• Bootloading your Atmega chip in your newly prepared breadboard with an AVR programmer

But wait, there's another step right? If you pulled your Atmega chip out of your Arduino, it is most likely bootloaded at the factory and you won't need to move any further in this tutorial. However, if you purchased some Atmega8 or Atmega168 chips from a store they will NOT be bootloaded with the Arduino bootloader (with the exception of Adafruit Industries). What does this mean? You won't be able to program your chips using the USB to serial breakout board and the Arduino software. So, in order to make your new chips useful you must bootload them and must check out step 4.

Step 4: Bootloading your chips

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_14.jpg | Connecting the TX and RX Now, let's get the USB to serial breakout board talking with your new Arduino setup. Connect the RX (pin 2) of your Atmega chip to pin 10 of the USB to serial board, and connect the TX (pin 3) of your Atmega chip to pin 14 of the USB to serial board.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-19.jpg | Fin And there you have it... ready to be plugged in, powered up and programmed!

Connect pin 6 of the breakout board to power and pin 9 to ground. With the USB port facing upward, I'm calling the top left pin 1, the bottom left 9, the top right 10, and the bottom right 18.

Now, let's get the USB to serial breakout board talking with your new Arduino setup. Connect the RX (pin 2) of your Atmega chip to

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_12.jpg | Arduino-Ready!

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_13.jpg | Add FT232 USB to Serial Board

Now we'll be adding the USB to Serial breakout board to our Arduino breadboard circuit. If you haven't added male headers to your breakout board, you will need to do it now.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_usbback.jpg | The pinouts of the Sparkfun FT232 breakout

Curious what all the pin outs are for the SparkFun FT232 breakout board, just simply flip it over! In this situation we'll be using VCC (to supply 5V from the USB port to your board), GND, TXD, and RXD.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_12.jpg | Arduino-Ready!

Finally, add the LED. The long leg or the cathode connects to the red wire and the short leg or the anode connects to the 220 ohm resistor going to ground.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_10.jpg | LED leads on Arduino pin 13 The chip I'm using on this board is actually already programmed using the blink_led program that comes with the Arduino software. If you already have an Arduino printed circuit board running it is a good idea to go ahead and check the breadboard version you are building with a chip you know works. The blink_led program blinks pin 13. Pin 13 on the Arduino is NOT the AVR ATMEGA8-16PU/ATMEGA168-16PU pin 13. It is actually pin 19 on the Atmega chip.

Refer to the pin mapping above to be sure you are plugging it in correctly.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_11.jpg | LED on Arduino Pin 13

Finally, add the LED. The long leg or the cathode connects to the red wire and the short leg or the anode connects to the resistor going to ground.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_10.jpg | LED leads on pin 13 The chip I'm using on this board is actually already programmed using the blink_led program that comes with the Arduino software. If you already have an Arduino printed circuit board running it is a good idea to go ahead and check the breadboard version you are building with a chip you know works. The blink_led program blinks pin 13. Pin 13 on the Arduino is NOT the AVR ATMEGA8-16PU/ATMEGA168-16PU pin 13. It is actually pin 19 on the Atmega chip. Refer to the pin mapping above to be sure you are plugging it in correctly.

There is a nice little picture of the Pin Mapping on the Arduino site.

Add a 16 MHz external clock between pin 9 and 10, and add two 22 pF capacitors running to ground on each of those pins.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_09.jpg | Add a reset switch This is where we add the small tactile switch so that we can reset the Arduino whenever we'd like and prepare the chip for uploading a new program. A quick momentary press of this switch will reset the chip when needed. Add the switch just above the top of the Atmega chip crossing the gap in the breadboard. Then, add a wire from the bottom left leg of the switch to the RESET pin of the Atmega chip and a wire from the top left leg of the switch to ground.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_08.jpg | Add the Clock & Caps

Before moving on, this image is a great resource for learning what each of the pins on your Atmega chip do in relation to the Arduino's functions. This will clarify a lot of confusion behind why we hook up certain pins the way we do. For even more detailed information, take a peek at the datasheet for the Atmega 168 (short version) (long version).

Start by adding a 10k ohm resistor "up" (to power) on the RESET pin in order to prevent the chip from resetting itself during normal operation. The RESET pin reboots the chip when pulled down to ground. In later steps we will show you how to add a reset switch that takes advantage of this.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_07.jpg | Add the Clock & Caps

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduino_pinmap.png | Arduino Pin Map

Before moving on, this image is a great resource for learning what each of the pins on your Atmega chip do in relation to the Arduino's functions. This will clarify a lot of confusion behind why we hook up certain pins the way we do. For even more detailed information, take a peek at the datasheets for the Atmega 8 and Atmega 168.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_07.jpg | Add supporting circuitry

Start by adding a 10k ohm resistor "up" (to power) an the RESET pin in order to prevent the chip from resetting itself during normal operation. The RESET pin reboots the chip when pulled down to ground. In later steps we will show you how to add a reset switch that takes advantage of this.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_07.jpg | Add supporting circuitry

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_06.jpg | Blank Canvas

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_06.jpg" | Blank Canvas

Step 2: ATMEGA8/168 Basics

Add an LED on the left side of your board across from the voltage regulator. An LED attached to power like this is a great troubleshooting trick. You'll always know when your board is being powered as well as quickly know if your board is being shorted.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_05.jpg | LED

| LED

Also, add a 10uF capacitor between the in of the regulator and the ground as well as a 10uF capacitor on the right rail between power and ground. The silver strip on the capacitor signifies the ground leg.

Attach:file.ext Δ

Add the 7805 power regulator and the lines to power the board. The regulator is a TO-220 package where the in-line from the external power supply goes in on the left, ground is in the middle and the 5V out is on the right (when facing the front of the regulator). We're also adding power out and ground wires that connect to the right rail and power in and ground wires off to the left where our power supply may go.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_04.jpg | Add the 7805 and decoupling capacitors

Add the 7805 power regulator and the lines to power the board. The regulator is a TO-220 package where the in-line from the external power supply goes in on the left, ground is in the middle and the 5V out is on the right (when facing the front of the regulator). We're also adding power and ground wires that connect to the right rail and power and ground wires off to the left where our power supply may go.

Also, add a 10uF capacitor between the in of the regulator and the ground as well as a 10uF capacitor on the right rail between power and ground.

Add power and ground wires for where your voltage regulator will be.

Add power and ground wires at the bottom of your board connecting each rail.

Bootloading your Atmega Chips (Optional)

There are several options for bootloading your Atmega chips, a few of which are covered in this tutorial. If you wish to bootload your Atmega chips using your breadboard, an additional part will make your life much easier.

AVR Programming Adapter from Sparkfun, SKU BOB-08508

AVR Breakout Board for Bootloading

If you plan to follow the optional step for bootloading your Atmega chip, you may like to get your hands on a really handy AVR breakout board from Sparkfun. This isn't required but will make your life easier. The Sparkfun SKU is BOB-08508.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_03.jpg | Bottom Power lines

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_02.jpg | Top Power lines

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_03.jpg | Bottom Power lines

Attach:file.ext Δ http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-02.jpg | Top Power lines

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-02.jpg | Bottom Power lines

Add the 7805 power regulator and the lines to power the board. The regulator is a TO-220 package where the in-line from the external power supply goes in on the left, ground is in the middle and the 5V out is on the right (when facing the front of the regulator). We're putting lines across the board to have a little more room for our power supply down the road. You should also add wires to both side-strips of the breadboard leading from the rows that are the "ground" and "out" of the power regulator.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_parts.jpg | The Supplies

This tutorial shows you how to build an Arduino compatible breadboard with an Atmel Atmega8/168 AVR microcontroller and FTDI FT232 breakout board from SparkFun.

Originally created by Carlyn Maw
Updated October 23, 2008 by Rory Nugent

• 2 LEDs

• 1 10k Ohm resistor
• 2 10 uF capacitors

• small momentary normally open ("off") button, i.e. Omron type B3F

USB to Serial Communication Board

You will need a FT232 USB Breakout board from SparkFun.

There are two options available from them:

• FT232RL USB to Serial Breakout Board, SKU BOB-0071
• Arduino Serial USB Board, SKU DEV-08165

If you plan to use the top option and have not yet soldered headers to the breakout board, now would be a good time.

Step 1: Adding circuitry for a power supply

If you've already worked with microcontrollers, it is likely that you already have a preferred way to wire up a power supply to your board, so go ahead and do it that way. In case you need some reminders, here are some pictures of one way to go about it. (We are going for a 5V regulated power supply)

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies

%lfloat width=400px margin-top=5px margin-right=25px margin-bottom=5px margin-left=25px% http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies

Here we've already gone ahead and mounted the surface mount chip on the spark-fun breakout board listed in the materials, stuck it into the breadboard and added the power and ground lines. You can look at the FT232R Datasheet. The pins down the left of the breakout board are conveniently the pins down the left of the chip as pictured in the datasheet.

• Pin 4 - VCCIO - +1.8V to +5.25V supply to the UART Interface and CBUS group pins (1...3, 5, 6, 9...14, 22, 23)... UART stands for "Universal Asynchronous Receiver Transmitter" and basically this pin determines what voltage the USB port will transmit as "high"

Now take your USB socket and put it on the board. You will definitely want to check the data sheet of any USB socket you buy to make sure you know how the pins line up because they are determined by industry standards. The USB cable is going to put power out where it puts power out, not where you decide to put the red wire! In the "Type B" kind we use it goes kinda like this.

• Pin 21 - Ground (black) The ground reference (coming from the computer) for the whole board
• Pin 20 (VCC) - Power' (red) The power supply (coming from the computer) for the whole board

This is where we take advantage of the RESET pin as the way to prepare the chip to recieve a new program from the Arduino sotware. In this step we add a little momentary button and hook it up so that when it's pressed the RESET pin gets exposed to ground. The chip then reboots and listens for any signal being sent to it via the USB port that might represent a new program.

• Pin 20 - AVcc - Suppply voltage for the ADC converter. Needs to be connected to power if ADC isn't being used and to power via a low-pass filter if it is (a low pass filter is a circuit that cleans out noise from the power source, we aren't using one)

At this point if you had already programmed your chip somewhere else and didn't need this breadboard circuit to reprogram the chip, you could stop here. But part of the fun is in-circuit programming so keep going to really make a full USB-Arduino-circuit on a breadboard!

Like other microcontrollers, the AVR chips also need that trusty 10k Ohm resistor "up" (to power) on their master-clear / reset pin in order to prevent the chip from resetting itself during normal operation. The RESET pin reboots the chip when it is linked to ground. We are going to use that feature later, but for now we just want the chip to run steadily so we hook it up with a high-valued resistor to power.

• Pin 20 - AVcc - Suppply voltage for the ADC converter. ˜needs to be connected to power if ADC isn't being used and to power via a low-pass filter if it is

last updated July 11, 2006 by Carlyn

This tutorial is about building an Arduino compatible breadboard with an ATMEL8 AVR microcontroller and FTDI FT232 breakout board from Spark-fun. The two skematics this is based on are here and here

created June 2, 2006 by Carlyn
last updated June 8, 2006 by Carlyn

If you've already worked with microcontrollers, it is likely that you already have a preferred way to wire up a power supply to your board, so go ahead and do it that way. In case you need some reminders, here are some pictures of one way to go about it. (We are going for a 5V regulated power supply)

Add the 7805 power regulator and the lines to power the board. The regulator is a TO-220 package where the in-line from the external power supply goes in on the left, ground is in the middle and the 5V out is on the right (when facing the front of the regulator). We're putting lines across the board to have a little more room for our power supply down the road. You should also add wires to both side-strips of the breadboard leading from the rows that are the "ground" and "out" of the power regulator.

Here we connect the AVR ATMEGA8 RX (pin 2) to the FT232 TXD (pin 1) and the ATMEGA8 TX (pin 3) to the FT232 RXD (pin 5)

Now take your USB socket and put it on the board. You will definitely want to check the data sheet of any USB socket you buy to make sure you know how the pins line up because we are dealing with an industry standard. The USB cable is gonna put power out where it puts power out, not where you decide to put the red wire! In the "Type B" kind we use it goes kinda like this.

And there you have it... ready to be plugged in, powered up and programmed!

At this point if you had already programmed your chip somewhere else and didn't need the circuit you were building to be able to reprogram the chip, this is where you could stop... but we want to take it that extra step and really make a full USB-Arduino-circuit on a breadboard.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-13.jpg | the RESET pin This is where we set up the RESET pin as the way to reset the chip as preparation for downloading a new program from the Arduino sotware. In this step we add a little momentary button and hook it up so when pressed we expose the RESET pin to ground, rebooting the chip and priming it to listen to any signal we're going to send it via the USB port.

Here we've already gone ahead and mounted the surface mount chip on the spark-fun breakout board listed in the materials, stuck it into the breadboard and added the power and ground lines. You can look at the FT232R Datasheet. The pins down the left of the breakout board are conveniently the pins down the left of the chip as pictured in the datasheet.

Here we connect the ATmega RX (pin 2) to the FT232 TXD (pin 1) and the ATmega TX (pin 3) to the FT232 RXD (pin 5)

Basic power and ground lines. You can get more information from the Summary Datasheet or the 300 page Long Version

16 MHz external clock with two 22 pF capacitors running to ground.

The chip I'm using on this board is actually already programmed using the blink_led program that comes with the Arduino software. If you already have an Arduino printed circuit board running it is a good idea to go ahead and check the breadboard version you are building with a chip you know works. The blink_led program blinks pin 13. Pin 13 on the Arduino is NOT the AVR ATMEGA8-16PU pin 13. There is a nice little picture of the Pin Mapping on the Arduino site.

Like other microcontrollers, the AVR chips also need that trusty 10k Ohm resistor "up" on their master-clear / reset pin to keep the chip from resetting during normal operation. The RESET pin reboots the chip when it is linked to ground. We are going to use that feature later, but for now we just want the chip to run steady so we hook it up to high resistance to power.

• Pin 7 - Vcc - Digital Supply Voltage

• Pin 21 - AREF - Analog reference pin for ADC
• Pin 20 - AVcc - Suppply voltage for the ADC converter. ˜eeds to be connected to power if ADC isn't being used and to power via a low-pass filter if it is

Basic power and ground lines. You can get more information from the [http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/2486S.pdf| Summary Datasheet] or the 300 page [http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc2486.pdf | Long Version]

• Pin 7 - Vcc - http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc2486.pdf

• Pin 21 - AREF -

Add the lines in and lines to both side-strips of the breadboard leading from where the power regulator is about to go.

Add the 7805 power regulator. Here a T0-220 package where the in-line from the external power supply goes in on the left, ground is in the middle and the 5V out is on the right (when facing the front of the regulator).

These capacitors and power regulator aren't strictly necessary if you're only ever going to power the board from the USB port. They are convenient to have in place just in case you need to wire up a motor or are running a program that doesn't need to be actively communicating with the computer, etc.

Here there is an LED to signal that the board is getting power on the bottom left. Some people like to power the led across the foot of the board so you can see that both sides are wired up correctly.

Now that the power-basics are done we are ready to load on the chip!

Step 2: ATMEGA8 Basics

Like other microcontrollers, the AVR chips also need that trusty 10k Ohm resistor (brown-black-orange) "up" on their master-clear pin (MCLR) to keep the chip from resetting during normal operation. The MCLR pin reboots the chip when it is hooked up to ground. We are going to use that feature later, but for now we just want the chip to run steady so we hook it up to high resistance to power.

• Pin 21 - AREF (reference voltage )

Step 1: Power the board

If you've already worked with microcontrollers, it is likely that you already have a way you normally wire up the board. So go ahead and do it that way. In case you need some reminders, here are some pictures of one way to go about it.

updated June 8, 2006 by Carlyn

created June 2, 2006 by Carlyn updated June 8, by Carlyn

Basic Parts for wiring up Arduino

Parts for wiring up USB communication with computer

Here you have 2 options, the slightly cheaper build your own breakout board and USB connector option, or a ready made adapter from Spark Fun. We don't have the ready-made adapter yet, but we will follow up with that when we get it

These capacitors and power regulator aren't strictly necessary if you're only ever going to power the board from the USB port, but they are convenient to have in place, just in case.

Here there is an LED to signal that the board is getting power on the bottom left. Some people like to power the led across the foot of the board so you can see that both sides are wired up.

Here we take our soldered up USB socket and put it on the board. You will definitely want to check the data sheet of any USB socket you buy to make sure you know how the pins line up because we are dealing with an industry standard. The USB cable is gonna put power out where it puts power out, not where you decide to put the red wire! In the "Type B" kind we use it goes kinda like this.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-02.jpg | Power lines

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-03.jpg | Add the 7805 (A)

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-04.jpg | Add the 7805 (B)

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-05.jpg | Add the capacitors

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-06.jpg | LED

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-07.jpg | Blank Canvas

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-08.jpg | Add the Chip

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-10.jpg | Add the Clock

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-11.jpg | LED on pin "13"

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-12.jpg | Basic Board Done

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-13.jpg | the MCLR pin

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-15.jpg | Add FTDI FT232

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-16.jpg | Blue lines

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-17.jpg | Add the USB socket

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-18.jpg | Connect USB socket

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-19.jpg | Fin

Here we take our soldered up USB socket and put it on the board. You will definately want to check the data sheet of any USB socket you buy to make sure you know how the pins line up because we are dealing wth an industry standard.The USB cable is gonna put power out where it puts power out, not where you decide to put the red wire! In the "Type B" kind we use it goes kinda like this.

So once you get your USB port straightened out - you can connect it to the FTDI 232RL like this:

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-19.jpg | Fin And there you have it... ready to be plugged in and powered up!

Here we take our soldered up USB socket and put it on the board. You will definately want to check the data sheet of any USB socket you buy to make sure you know how the pins line up because we are dealing wth an industry standard.The USB cable is gonna put power out where it puts power out, not where you decide to put the red wire! In the "Type B" kind we use it goes kinda like this

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-17.jpg | Add the USB socket Here we take our soldered up USB socket and put it on the board. You will definately want to check the data sheet of any USB socket you buy to make sure you know how the pins line up because we are dealing wth an industry standard.The USB cable is gonna put power out where it puts power out, not where you decide to put the red wire!

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-18.jpg | Connect USB socket

• Pin 21 and actually the whole board! - The Ground reference (black) is from the computer and it runs into
• Pin 20 (VCC) to supply the chip, and the board. - Power' (red) is coming from the computer and we run it into

You may find that you have to run this breadboard version of things directly from the computer or a well powered hub.

• Pin 16 - USBDM - USB Data Signal Minus, Yellow wire
• Pin 15 - USBDP - USB Data Signal Plus, Blue wire

• small momentary normally open ("off") button

• Pin 7 - Vcc
• Pin 8 - GND
• Pin 22 - GND
• Pin 21 - AREF
• Pin 20 - AVcc

• Pin 4 - VCCIO - +1.8V to +5.25V supply to the UART Interface and CBUS group pins (1...3, 5, 6, 9...14, 22, 23). In USB bus powered designs connect to 3V3OUT to drive out at 3.3V levels, or connect to VCC to drive out at 5V CMOS level. This pin can also be supplied with an external 1.8V - 2.8V supply in order to drive out at lower levels. It should be noted that in this case this supply should originate from the same source as the supply to Vcc. This means that in bus powered designs a regulator which is supplied by the 5V on the USB bus should be used.
• Pin 7 - GND
• Pin 26 - TEST (to GND) - Puts the device into I.C. test mode. Must be tied to GND for normal operation.
• Pin 25 - AGND (to GND) - Device analog ground supply for internal clock multiplier
• Pin 21 - GND
• Pin 20 - VCC - 3.3V to 5.25V supply to the device core.
• Pin 18 - GND

Here we've already gone ahead and mounted the surface mount chip on the spark-fun breakout board, stuck it into the breadboard and added the power and ground lines. You can look at the FT232R Datasheet. The pins down the left, conveniently are the pins down the left!

• Pin 4 - VCCIO
• Pin 7 - GND
• Pin 26 - TEST (to GND)
• Pin 25 - AGND (to GND)
• 8
• 9 Power

18 GND

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-16.jpg | Blue lines Here we connect the ATmega RX (PD0 / pin 2) to the FT232 TXD (pin 1) and the ATmega TX (PD1 / pin 3) to the FT232 RXD (pin 5)

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-15.jpg | Add FTDI FT232 Here we've already gone ahead and mounted the surface mount chip on the spark-fun breakout board, stuck it into the breadboard and added the power and ground lines. You can look at the FT 232 Datasheet. The pins down the left, conveniently are the pins down the left!

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-16.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-17.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-18.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-19.jpg | Power and Ground

• small momentary button

This is where we finally get to use the MCLR pin as it was intended. In this step we add a little momentary button and hook it up so when pressed we expose the MCLR pin to ground, rebooting the chip and priming it to listen to any signal we're going to send it via the USB port.

• 16 MHz clock crystal
• 2 22 pF capacitors

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-12.jpg | Basic Board Done At this point if you, like us, had already programmed your chip somewhere else, this is where you could stop... but we want more! Way too much blank breadboard to be filled here.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-13.jpg | the MCLR pin This is where we finally get to use the MCLR pin as it was intended.

Basic power and ground lines.

• Pin 7 = Vcc
• Pin 8 = GND
• Pin 22 = GND
• Pin 21 is AREF
• Pin 20 is AVcc

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-10.jpg | Add the Clock 16 MHz external clock with two 22 pF capacitors running to ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-11.jpg | LED on pin "13" The chip on this board is actually already programmed using the blink_led program that comes with it. That program blinks pin 13. Pin 13 on the Arduino is NOT the AVR ATMEGA8-16PU pin 13. THere is a nice little picture of the Pin Mapping on the Arduino site.

Step 3: Arduino-Ready

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-11.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-12.jpg | Add the Chip

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-13.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-14.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-15.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-16.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-17.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-18.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-19.jpg | Power and Ground

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-10.jpg | Add the Chip

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground Basic power and ground lines. If you forget this step you can always double check on the Datasheet.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-08.jpg | Add the Chip Like the PIC, the AVR chips also need that trusty 10 k resistor up in the top left hand corner, for exactly the same reason. This is the master-clear pin that reboots the chip when it is hooked up to ground. We are going to use that feature later, but for now we just want the chip to run steady so we hook it up to high resistance to power.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground Basic power and ground lines. If you forget this step you can always double check on the Datasheet.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground Basic power and ground lines. If you forget this step you can always double check on the Datasheet.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground Basic power and ground lines. If you forget this step you can always double check on the Datasheet.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground Basic power and ground lines. If you forget this step you can always double check on the Datasheet.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground Basic power and ground lines. If you forget this step you can always double check on the Datasheet.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground Basic power and ground lines. If you forget this step you can always double check on the Datasheet.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground Basic power and ground lines. If you forget this step you can always double check on the Datasheet.

Here there is an LED to signal that the board is getting power on the bottm left. Some poeple like to power the led accross the foot of the board so you can see that both sides are wired up.

Step 2: ATMEL8 Basics

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-08.jpg | Add the Chip Like the PIC, the AVR chips also need that trusty 10 k resistor up in the top left hand corner, for exactly the same reason. This is the master-clear pin that reboots the chip when it is hooked up to ground. We are going to use that feature later, but for now we just want the chip to run steady so we hook it up to high resistance to power.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | Power and Ground Basic power and ground lines. If you forget this step you can always double check on the Datasheet.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-07.jpg | Blank Canvas Now that the basics are done we are ready to load on the chip!

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-05.jpg | Add the capacitors These capacitors and power regulator aren't strickly necessary if you're only ever going to power the board from the USB port, but they are convenient to have in place, just in case.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-06.jpg | LED Here I've put an LED to signal that the board is getting power on the bottm left. Some poeple like to power the led accross the foot of the board so you can see that both sides are wired up.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-02.jpg | Power lines Add the lines in and lines to both side-strips of the breadboard

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-04.jpg | Add the 7805 (B)

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-02.jpg | Power lines Add the lines in and lines to both side-strips of the breadboard
http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-03.jpg | Add the 7805 (A) http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-04.jpg | Add the 7805 (B) Add the 7805 power regulator
http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-05.jpg | LED Here I've put an LED to signal that the board is getting power on the bottm left. Some poeple like to power the led accross the foot of the board so you can see that both sides are wired up.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-02.jpg | Add the lines in and lines to both side-strips of the breadboard http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-03.jpg | Add the 7805 power regulator (view 1) http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-04.jpg | Add the 7805 power regulator (view 2)

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-02.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-03.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-04.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-05.jpg | The Supplies

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-06.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-07.jpg | The Supplies

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-08.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-09.jpg | The Supplies

However you like to do it... here are some pictures as reminders

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies

This tutorial is about building an Arduino compatible breadboard with an ATMEL8 AVR microcontroller and FTDI FT232 breakout board from Spark-fun.

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies

• A breadboard
• 22 AWG wire
• 7805 Voltage regulator
• 2 LED
• 2 220 Ohm resistors
• 1 10 k Ohm resistor
• 1 10 uF capacitor
• 1 (or 2) 1 uF capacitor

Option 1:

This is the option we are using in the below tutorial and it involves surface mounting the FTDI Chip on the the board yourself and making a little adapter for the USB connector because they are really annoying to hand solder directly on to wires...

• 1 USB Female Type B Connector mounted on perf-board with some headers
• FTDI 232RL USB to serial converter chip
• SSOP to DIP Adapter 28-Pin SKU#: PCB-SSOP-28

Option 2:

• Spark Fun Breakout Board for FT232RL USB to Serial SKU#: PCB-FT232RL

Step 1: Power the board as usual

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies

Overview

This tutorial is about building an Arduino compatible breadboard with an ATMEL8 AVR microcontroller and FT232 breakout board from Spark-fun.

To do this, you'll need:

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/images/tutorials/Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg Arduino-USB-BB-01.jpg | The Supplies