The Tie uses a combination of conductive thread and wrapping wire ... The LEDs are in series
Three LEDs light
Then four
THE SWITCH
MEANWHILE...
The binder is cut and fit onto the form
The back of the shirt is left in place
In which the difference between the pattern and the actual thing is investigated
and it is discovered that Mandy has stealth sewing skills and can cut very straight lines.
I began this but forgot to continue.
The difference between an alkaline battery and a NiMH is learned in the field. Forward and reverse current as well as amperage are also re/discovered.
Early Breadboard Mock-up... refresher on parallel and series set-ups
S-FLuXes up and running but they need a lot of power... Is there a planet where 36V is comfortably wearable? Maybe the Jolly Green Giant is available for fitting purposes.
The S-Fluxes match the tie. Do I have to let go of my careful tie shopping for the sake of wearability?
New Power Scheme... individual batteries attached to tie's interfacing. Seperate power but ground is connected
Meanwhile... the binder is pinned—albeit crookedly—but I have been assured that my mini sewing lesson will take care of all of that...
The T-shirt itself is too thin and has been replaced by a *cotton stretch* fabric.
I thought there might be some way to spin this device so that it could compress instead of inflate... This did not work but did provide a potential solution for men who might want to temporarily suggest a bust... A altogether different project...
•Fiber Optic cables were played with and briefly reconsidered and acquired just in case for a more a non intermittent light source...
•Iron-on reflective tape was also purchased for a non-electronic illumination approach
•A user to test the binder was identified!!
•After a few ties that had patterns and lives of their own,
a tie was purchased whose pattern looks very similar to the S-FLUX LEDs themselves. Goin
•Wrapping wire was purchased after too many attempts to get the four pronged LEDS to light using conductive thread. I think the thread will be used to hold the wrapping wire in place.
•Pinned and did preliminary sewing for binder...sewing with a machine should be next
•Armed with wrapping wire LEDs were put in place and tested
A still from von Sternberg's 1941 noir The Shanghai Gesture
Often the use of the word gesture is used in the positive. "It was a nice gesture," for example, is used to describe a courtesy or an act of friendship. Of course a gesture can be negative, a menacing gesture etc, but part of the very definition of the word—albeit rather far down on the list—is this idea of a nicety, a common courtesy.
I thought about this again this week because I was trying to figure out where and how to switch off the LEDs for the "signaling" part of the binder. A momentary switch is like a flash: a flash of light a flash of a smile. In a city of millions these are the encounters that stand out. A genuine moment shared with a stranger.
I have a tiny momentary switch that might fit nicely on the front of the tie or on the cuff of the shirt. I would like it to fit in seamlessly with a "normal" gesture--straightening a tie, pulling on one's cuffs, adjusting one's collar?
Here is the more processed version. This uses two layers... The outermost layer is a dress shirt and tie—the most obvious signifier of masculinity||power||privilege —that I can think of right now. The second layer is the wrapped binder. The binder is attached to an undershirt that is secured underneath the outer layer. It can be wrapped around the chest area and then fastened underneath the armpit. I think the front of the t-shirt will be cut away but the back will remain. This material will be something smooth/comfortable.
I haven't decided exactly what the back might look like. It could be the back of the oxford cloth shirt or provide a cutaway view...
The S-Flux LEDs arrived on tuesday so finally it is possible to begin to incorporate thoughts of these into the picture.
Although this is not the material I do imagine a combination of soft, textured materials and hard/electronic ones for the signaling mechanism. 
Not fuzz per se but something that looks and suggets touch/feel. I also just ordered this reflective tape. It is iron-on and washable and specifically made for fabrics.
I've been modifying old t-shirts in an effort to pin down the design of the binder. Although I've found someone to user test for me at this point it's faster to try it on and modify it myself.
I've been experimenting with the compression model. Literally taking in the T-shirt to see what the limits of compression and comfort might be. The shirt does have to be incredibly tight though to begin to bind so pulling it on has become increasingly uncomfortable. I remembered these... which have snaps along the shoulder. Snaps underneath the arms perhaps?
I'm leaning towards a design that combines the two techniques: compression and binding. This is a modification of Shlomit's great idea to take the best of the wrapped binder (it's comfort and adjustability) and the compression shirt (its neat, undershirt-like appearance)...
This is the first sketch. Which basically entails attaching the binding material to a close-fitting tshirt.
After a really inspiring visit to Mood Fabrics last weekend I am back to thinking about what materials might be best to use. My instinct is to use something soft and stretchy so I looked at a selection of rayons and lycra blends. Everything seemed to be a bit too soft(?) to bind and hold any electronic components but it might make a nice lining for the inside?
Polly also gave me a range of samples from the Spandex House. Spandex seems like the cheaper cousin to the microfibers being used in these kind of products...
These are from the Flexees Instant Slimmer line of products. Yet another entry into the ever growing archive. Clearly it is time to stop collecting these images. These products— and their accompanying desires— are everywhere...
http://www.barenecessities.com/Flexees_product_FLEXEES6868_,size,.htm
This also has two layers= Body: 79% nylon, 21% lycra. Lining: 82% nylon, 18% lycra
...
I also did some research on fiber optic cables. The irreplacable Polly has of course located some. So I'll begin to experiment with it. It is incredibly thin and even when tied to together it should provide a better way to illuminate the garment. Lighter more compact. I look forward to experimenting with it. Hints from Kyveli: Will need to bunch them together tightly. Electrical tape should work. Brighter at the ends then in the center. Can be used in short lengths for colored accents...
...
The only other discovery of note is the revelation about how nice flat seams look. I found this shirt that uses velcro enclosures instead of buttons... not an enclosure that will work but the flat seam makes it sit very nicely indeed... If the ad copy is right these seams also prevent chafing
Project Description
My final project is an item of clothing called the Gender Neutralization Device (GND). The GND compresses the breasts and contours the chest area in an effort to make the wearer’s chest appear flatter and as a result more masculine and/or gender neutral. Additionally, the GND also includes a built-in visual component or signaling system —switch operated LEDs—that is intended to enhance the aesthetic experience of both the user and viewer. Although the common term for the practice of the non-surgical creation of a flat chest is “binding” I prefer the term GND because it abandons the larger allusions to compression/repression—specifically the reference to the practice of Japanese foot- binding —and instead describes the device’s goals and desires.
The GND has both practical and decorative qualities and as a result functions in the zone between product and aesthetic object. The GND’s intention is to enable the wearer to de-emphasize certain signifiers of their gender identity while calling attention to themselves (as signifiers?) through the voluntary illumination of their garments. Similar to the male peacock who fans his extravagant plumage as part of courtship, the GND encourages users to stand-out or fit-in at will.
The GND's ability to display or call attention to itself at will—its peacock factor—is what differentiates it from available binders or compression systems. Since many people bind to appear flat-chested in order to bring their physiognomy in line with their gender identity, a binder that "announces" itself in some way is an anomaly. But it is the seemingly cross-purposes of the GND that I am most interested in exploring. One of my goals with the project is to further investigate this relationship between passing, transitioning and being where you are.
from wikipedia: a corset is a garment worn to mold and shape the torso in a desired shape for medical or aesthetic purposes." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corset
Hourglass corsets circa 1890 (atleast the first one)
again wikipedia: " the busk was intended to keep the front of the corset straight and upright. It was made of wood, ivory, or bone slipped into a pocket and tied in place with a lace called the busk point. These busks were often carved and decorated, or inscribed with messages, and were popular gifts from men to their sweethearts." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Busk
A few interesting things here. One is the rigidity that the boning gives to the corset. the corset is made of a flexible material and then given shape by placement of the 'bones" This is similar to the stays used in the back suppport products. Is this something that might be useful to adapt for the chest binder? Perhaps it would give a bit of a tin man look making the chest look too flat? Explore. Most corsets were worn with an under garment of some sort...cotton, linen "chemise" or "shift." It looks as if some contemporary models are lined with satin for better comfort.
Also the use of the hook and eye fastener. The boning and fastener are combined i think. Used in the front it is easier for the wearer to put on without assistance but potentially gives the front a bulky look?
Again Lovely...
Less frilly and fantasia like. A bit more straightforward. I love the palette here as well. Tan and brown. I've never been a big fan of the Victorian look so this appeals as a more practical approach more reminiscent of armor in its look/fit?
Ribbon Corset... or Waist cincher 
"The waist cincher was in fashion from 1860 to 1907, particularly 1900 to 1907 and was very rare from 1911 to 1947 and from 1960 to 1985." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waist_cincher Ow.
The corset and the unnaturally thin waist was brought back into fashion in the 40s with Dior's New Look. Although this image might incite immediate outcries regarding the sadistic demands that the fashion industry makes of women's bodies etc I also noticed that this context changed my reading of this engraving of Joan of Arc so that for a moment her armor seemed less masculine and more feminized and corset-like...
Compendium of Materials Notes...
Materials Currently in Use: DIY: Ace bandages, saran wrap, stockings, cycling shorts, gauze
Professional/Off the Shelf: Micro fibers, nylon, spandex (or elastene or Lycra), Nylon blends, wicking or "Quick Dry" materials
[
The wicking materials proved to be a fascinating research distraction... would solve the hot weather problem but prohibitively expensive for a prototype
Wicking Fabrics are lightweight Directional fabrics that move moisture horizontally over a large area to provide maximum evaporation and cooling at higher temperatures. Parameta® A (Active Travel) or Parameta® T Reversible (Cambia range) are two examples.
http://www.paramo.co.uk/UK/acatalog/Wicking-12.html
]
Construction Approaches: I've found quite a few cmpression binders that use a layered approach. With something like 50% cotton/50% lycra INSIDE with 100% lycra OUTSIDE...
An inventory of current products in the breast binding/chest compression arena...
T-SHIRT: ($36 - $80)
http://www.underworks.com
This involves two stretchy materials: 70% nylon + 30% spandex. Fits over the head and has no enclosure or fasteners. This is a redesign of a the nylon stocking + T-Shirt option. It boasts a"double front panel" and purports to ease back pain and improve posture.
COMPRESSION VESTS ($78-$88+ Overseas Shipping)
mangoproducts.net/FTMChestBinders.htm#vests1
This is a "professional" product manufactured by/for transmen sold online through Taiwan. These seem to be differnt from the T-Kingdom binders also from Taiwan. The vests are sold through Mango Products.
I am particularly curious about these because they have front enclosures: zippers and velcro. this is something that I am interested in but vetoed originally because it seemed as if it might be too bulky. But this is clearly a design worth trying. T-Kingdom does have a similar zip front but their garment is shorter and is described as "sports bra styled." This one has mesh air panelling plus "supportive Lycra"
it is made from a "lightweight, breathable but firm, stretchy material."
BRASSIERE ($25):
http://www.t-kingdom.com/shopping/english/page690_english.shtml
A tighter version of the classic sports bra. Another version is also made by Title 9 designs.
EUPHEMISMS ABOUND: There is a host of products for men that promise to "reshape" the "silhouettes" men who are out of shape or may desire to "enhance their rear or front view."
A descrption form the T-kingdom site
"•Feature: soft material, breath aire, comfortable, light, and can help to shape your body. the most Sophisticated binding underware."
CORSET InSPIRED ($18):
http://www.onehanesplace.com/product/19655.html?cgnbr=B120000000
I found the design of Barely There's SMOOTH-TONERS SHAPING TANK fascinating. The corset-like details—from what I can tell—seem more decorative than functional. Described as "retro-look" it features the lacing and boning of the original corsets minus the functionality. I do find the incredibly close/tight fit distressing. Again discomfort for the sake of fashion/appearance. Design that seems to inhibit or atleast limits its ability to be worn for any significant amount of time. It is made from a nylon/spandex "micro-fiber."
MASS MARKET BACK/AB SUPPORT PRODUCTS often called Binders...
DIYLovely:
Adventures of an American Trans Fag
This is actually really similar to the design I've been formulating... design will be determined by the add-ons...
Another home-grown variety:
Here are some early attempts in response to the question of what the binder might look like.
These drawings take the back support brace as a model... they usaully involve a metal spine that provides support. They are corset-like and very sturdy. But they might be too stiff and uncomfortable for this application.
You need to wrap the binder several times in order smooth out the look of the chest. The number of times that you wrap effect the location of the LEDs? I originally imagined the LEDs travelling along the center of the binder.
Obviously this is not for everyday use. In fact you would have to dress in a way to showcase the binder if you wanted to be able to see the illumination. Perhpas an ace bandage with some LEDs would be the best place to start.
Gender Boxing
“Binding. Urghh. But unless you're very lucky or you're prepared to walk around like a hunchback, the dread of someone spotting your female-shaped chest is a nightmare... Myself, I've managed to sprain my ribs several times in the past... Some people never leave the bedroom without binding, while others never bother at all. Each to his own.”
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/agitor/ftm/gender.html
"Bandages_Wind them round tightly (bearing in mind you still have to breathe), pushing the flesh up towards the armpits. Secure with safety pins and cover with a T-shirt. I find it is best to ensure the binding goes quite high to prevent it falling down, and sometimes use a round of sticky bandage (elastoplast) on top to ensure a safe hold."
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/agitor/ftm/bind.html
The Trans Binder...
Once I starting asking around the examples came pouring in, there are a lot of people who bind their breasts and for a wide range of reasons. Since many people risk the crushing of their ribcages in an effort to appear flat-chested—and/or male or simply not female or less so or neither/or etc etc—I thought that one simple solution might be to create some kind of binding system that not only affects the contours of the chest but also celebrates the very act of binding itself. Like armor. Like a peacock and its feathers. Like a warrior. Like the semiotics of the hanky code : as simple as a handkerchief in the pocket. A signal to the self and others if necessary that you are there. This could be a narrowcast of lights, sound bytes...
Of course further research proves that a range of people bind. Nursing mothers use binding to "Dry Up" the milk when they are weaning or nursing...
I've been trying to thaw out my ideation deep freeze by just roaming around in my brain a bit. I woke up this morning with the practical solution to my gender neutralization needs: the transition binder. A possible solution to the desire/necessity that some people feel to bind their breasts in order to appear more flat-chested. Often this is the most crucial step in the process of passing or transitioning or just being something other then what you were born to be...
High Level Idea for Final Project …………………………………………………………
Gender Neutralization Device ||Personal Transformation Device
A wearable garment or device that might enable people to shift or re-envision their sense of self, identity or place.
At some point during the first class meeting the words Gender Neutralization Device (GND) flashed before my eyes. As someone who often engages in evocative title creation well in advance, I wasn’t particularly surprised by the revelation— I just had no idea what my subconscious was formulating. I’ve spent the last several weeks investigating this idea and focusing on ways to ground the concept in specific and realizable goals. I liked the project’s title but what did it mean? A simple free associative exercise netted the following images and fragments—Joan of Arc on the battlefield, chain mail and armor, Sun Ra, drag kings wrapping their breasts to appear flat-chested, trans as identity and “transitioning” as a verb, arcane mechanical torture devices touted as “solutions” to psychological problems. After reading the excerpts from Ruth P. Rubinstein’s Dress Codes, I realized that I was more interested in the socio-cultural reasons supporting the desire for “temporary and continuant identity transformation” than I was in creating an assistive device of some kind. I was struck by Steve Mann’s use of the term “reconfigured visual reality” in his description of his WearCam sousveillance device and his focus on parallels between reality and sight. This presented the idea that the desired identity reinvention might be technologically mediated through sound and image. Obviously this is a very high concept idea. At this point my plan is to further explore actual materials—op amps to distort sounds, technology embedded in particular styles of dress.
A bank of related images can be found here…
http://itp.nyu.edu/~lg221/wearables/ideas/finalidea.html
References
• Marjorie Garber, “Cross-Dress for Success,” from Vested Interests, Routledge, 1997
• Valerie r. Hotchkiss, Clothes Make the Man: Female Cross Dressing in Medieval Europe, Garland Publishing, 1996
•Charlotte Suthrell, Unzipping Gender: Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture
graphic from a paper entitled "Exploring Cosmetic Surgery in the Socail Sciences," http://www.pages.drexel.edu/~ctc27/cosmeticsurgery.html
Gender identity disorder
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Gender identity disorder, as identified by psychologists and medical doctors, is a condition in which a person has been assigned one gender, usually on the basis of their sex at birth (compare intersexuality), but identifies as belonging to another gender, or does not conform with the gender role their respective society prescribes to them. It is a psychiatric term for what is widely known as transsexuality, transgender identity, and transvestism or cross-dressing (GID may or may not be present in the latter).
This feeling is usually reported as "having always been there" since childhood, although in some cases, it appears in adolescence or adulthood, and has been reported by some as intensifying over time. Since many cultures strongly disapprove of cross-gender behaviour, it often results in significant problems for affected persons and those in close relationships with them. In many cases, discomfort is also reported as stemming from the feeling that one's body is "wrong" or meant to be different.