Week 5 Techniques – Textile Basics

Week 5 Presentation: Here

Class Notes

Fabrics

  • Categorized by Construction
    • Felting
    • Weaving
    • Knitting
  • Categorized by Fibers
    • Natural Fibers
      • Wool
      • Silk
      • Fur, Leather, Faux Leather
      • Linen
      • Cotton
      • Hemp
      • Bamboo
    • Synthetic & Artificial Fibers
      • Polyester
      • Polyamide (nylon)
      • Acrylic
      • PVC (Polyvinyl chloride)
      • Viscose
      • Rayon

Sewing Machine

Industrial Sewing Machine Home Sewing Machine
Stitch Options One type of stitch per machine Multiple stitch options
Performance Cleaner, better looking stitch. Higher speed. “Extra work to get nice stitch.
Slower speed”
Fabric & Thread Allows room for larger cloth, thicker fabric, heavy thread Varies per machine.
Maintenance Less maintenance needed  Require oiling and cleaning of parts. Need to run once a while to maintain performance
  • Machine Sewing Steps
    • Pin fabrics with straight pins
    • Seam Allowance on Measuring Plate
    • Lift the presser foot
    • Place fabric
    • Lower the presser foot
    • Use hand wheel to place needle into fabric
    • Press on foot pedal
    • Back stitch at the beginning & end as the knot
  • Stitch Styles
  • Presser Foot
    • All-Purpose Foot
    • Zipper Foot
    • Invisible Zipper Foot
    • Rolled Hem Foot
    • Evenfeed Walking Foot
    • Adjustable Blind Hem Foot
    • Free-Motion Darning Foot
    • Ultra Glide Teflon Foot
    • Botton Hole Foot
    • Straight Stitch Foot
    • Satin Stitch Foot
    • Overcasting Foot
    • Gathering Foot

Patterns

Draping

  • Tools
    • Tailor’s chalk
    • Iron
    • Curved Ruler
    • See-through Ruler
    • Pattern Paper
  • Steps
    • Preparation
      • Fold the fabric edge for 1.5’’
    • Drape the front piece
      • Pin the fabric to mannequin follow center front line
      • Slice the neck area to flat the fabric onto mannequin
      • Mark the outlines, take it off from the mannequin, refine the outline with rulers
      • Cut the muslin with 1’’ extra
      • Pin back to muslin to refine the marks
    • Drape the back piece
      • Repeat the same process as front
    • Match
      • Match the shoulder seam
      • Match the side seam
    • True
      • True the pattern, trim off extra fabrics, mark
    • Cut
      • Pin pattern onto muslin fabric, cut with seam allowance (recommend 1’’ for beginners)
    • Sew
  • Sewing
  • Seam Finish

Assignment

  • Creating a garment to express a message/information/data to people around you. 4-weeks assignment. Project presentation on March 25.
  • Mandatory sewing machine session w/ Jingwen, Sandy or Idith