Britta Riley

Rapid Prototyping Fabric Sculpture

Emerging technologies in 3D animation and garment manufacturing are making possible new forms for textile sculpture.

http://www.brittariley.com/fabricsculpture.html

We are surrounded by new forms derived from architects' adoption of 3D animation and computerized fabrication techniques over the last few decades in their work with hard materials. I am exploring parallel technologies, just emerging now, for working with the complex physics of textiles.
I hope to generate new sculptural forms that characterize the unique physical properties of fabric.
I have been experimenting with two emerging technologies: a 3-dimensional knitting machine and a new fabric simulation plug-in, called nCloth, for the Autodesk Maya 3-dimensional animation program.
Maya’s new nCloth plug-in simulates fabric drape with unprecedented accuracy and flexibility. Using this function, I have been able to virtually through virtual fabric sculpture prototypes, simulated draped fabric forms. I will incarnate a final form in real fabric by exporting a 2-dimensional “pattern” to the laser cutter and sewing it back into living 3-dimensionality for display at my thesis presentation.
The 3D knitting machine’s physical abilities will enable fabrication of textile forms that could never be crafted before, but the rigidity of the software’s current user interface limits the machine’s use to highly-trained engineers in the garment industry. Working with Dr. Wonsek Choi at North Carolina State University to produce a seamless cotton sweater, I was able to come to a first hand understanding of the machine’s capabilities and constraints. I made a short film available online documenting the process for those interested in experimenting with the technology as well. The machine has the wherewithall to knit a sphere for the first time in the history of mechanized knitting. However, the technology is far less user-friendly than those in hard material fabrication. In fact, having recourse to only a 2D interface in making a 3D object is very frustrating and takes all the “rapid” out of rapid prototyping.
As a next step, I hope to develop a script for Maya that will export coordinates to the 3D knitting machine’s software.


The new nCloth plug-in for Maya was developed for film animators to make more realistic simulations of cloth movement. I am using it to sculpt forms in fabric before they are ever born in the real world. One form I found allows a cloth sphere to stand on its own,

Sculptors, architects, designers, artist, mathematicians, kids, and anyone else who might like floppy things as much as I do.

I see the catenary sculptures as a tactile science museum exhibit. During the show, I will have some of my catenary sphere sculptures. People can play with them and see if they can find the catenaries to make them stand up. I will also have video that shows how I discovered the forms and shows some other tools that suggest we might be surrounded by more floppy things in the future.

I create a catalog of forms in Maya and animate them as nCloth objects to see how they will drape. When I find a draped shape I like, I export it to a program designed for orgami artists that collapses the form into 2-dimensional cacophony of shapes. I send that file to the laser printer to cut it out of fabric. I then sew the peices back together to recreate the original form in real life.

I\'ve learned that computers are no match for humans at predicting a realistic fabric drape.

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